In the recently launched Pakistan’s Museum of Food (MoF) featuring the country’s diverse culinary landscape, Karachi based chef Gulnar Cowasjee who runs her food enterprise Ghar Se (from home) was invited to showcase Parsi specialities. The digital Museum was launched this mid September by filmmaker Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy (SOC), in collaboration with Google Arts & Culture, and the British Council.
MoF is "the largest and most comprehensive exploration of Pakistani cuisine online and features over 9,000 images, along with videos, stories and recipes that capture the culinary tapestry of Pakistan,” Chinoy was quoted in the October 2023 issue of What’s On, the newsletter of the Karachi Zarthosti Banu Mandal. As remarked Tannaz Minwalla who alerted What’s On about this Museum, the recognition for "our minuscule community… is just wonderful.”
Above, from l: prawn curry, patra ni machhi, tomato and garlic chutney
by Gulnar Cowasjee (below) feature in the online museum
Prominent on the opening page of the online Museum are the "Regional Foods of Pakistan” from the northwestern province of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, to the desert areas of Sindh, like Thar in the south, the provinces of Punjab and Balochistan, and the traditional regional specialities of urban Pakistan, primarily Karachi, Lahore and Multan. "Thaal Tales reflecting Pakistan’s Bohra community” and a "Virtual Tour of Asia’s largest chili market” in Kunri, are the other attractions.
The segment "Unveiling Pakistan’s Parsi Culinary Traditions” begins with a brief introduction of Parsis as a small community whose "impact on Pakistan’s trajectory post-partition has been profound… Parsi traditions, culture and heritage are preserved through the community’s rich cuisine. Parsi food is a blend reflective of Iranian ancestry and local Gujarati cuisine. Coconut features prominently in numerous Parsi recipes. Eggs and fish also hold a cherished place.” This is followed by Cowasjee’s demonstration of and recipes for patra ni machhi, tomato and garlic chutney and prawn curry.
Since Cowasjee and Ghar Se frequently feature on various food-related social media pages in Pakistan, she was approached by SOC Films in end 2022. Excited by the Museum project, she suggested the three dishes that are shown on the site. "The shoot took place at our residence in Cyrus Colony. During the shoot, we also visited various monuments in Pakistan including the Lady Dufferin Hospital and Empress Market in Saddar,” she informed Parsiana. According to the background material on the community provided by MoF, "Pakistan’s Parsis have played a pivotal role in the nation’s constructional advancement. Eminent landmarks like Lady Dufferin Hospital and Virbaijee Katrak Maternity Ward stand as testaments to their legacy.”
For Cowasjee, "The entire experience was rather memorable as cooking is a very personal experience for me. During the shoot, I had the opportunity to reminisce about the days I spent in my maternal family home at Bachubai Terrace on Preedy Street in Karachi.” She still has vivid memories of her grandmother and youngest aunt preparing Parsi food (especially chapatis) when her cousins and uncles would sneak away a few chapatis to the annoyance of her grandmother who would admonish them "mua dukhta-o bas karo (rascals, stop now)!”
Cookery is Cowasjee’s third career. She first ran her salon Myra’se, after doing hair styling courses at Vidal Sasson, Miami. In 2011, at 61 years of age she completed her Masters in Business Administration (MBA) from Greenwich University after which she worked with the Sindh Bank Limited for almost 10 years. After retiring as a banker, fuelled by her creativity she launched her catering business. With no sales outlet as yet, Ghar Se operates from her residence with the assistance of three helpers. They accept daily food orders, but their major customers order Parsi favorites for parties and family occasions.
"The emergence of Covid-19 in Pakistan appeared to put a strain on every business other than home-based businesses which clearly thrived. Therefore, in December 2020, along with my daughter Myra, I started Ghar Se. The idea was inspired in particular by my grandmother, Dinamai Kaikobad, whose cooking style truly resonated with me. She never followed a recipe and believed in cooking with intuition. I have implemented this same mindset in my business,” observed Gulnar. Mother Shirin Minocher Patel too has been "a great motivator and inspiration” as also mother-in-law Toxy Cowasjee who compiled the Parsi recipe book Manna of the Angels. Even husband Nader’s assistance in this venture is valued.
While Myra is currently a practicing corporate lawyer she has a passion for cooking and continues to nurture her dream of eventually opening her own restaurant. Son Cyrus is a certified personal trainer with a passion for cars.