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Ahura Hotel in Amboli wore the look of a Chinatown. The attraction was Parsi bhonu (food) for a Chinese party celebrating a father-in-law’s birthday. "They come from far and near,” says proprietor Nevil Borzu (who has dropped the name ‘Irani’). In fact, according to Borzu, several families and gourmand parties drive down from Surat, Valsad, agrarian Daman, industrial Umergaon nearby and Bombay as well. This small Chinese party drove down from Bombay to enjoy their feast, the ambience and the experience, making a journey to and fro of a little under 300 km. "The attraction is our food and… service, which is quick,” the proprietor states.

"We are always prepared,” says wife Mitra though "you cannot predict how many people will turn up in a day. Departures and arrivals are ad hoc.” They claim to be able to dish up food for 100 to 120 persons on any day without any fanfare with a staff of about 18 to 20 persons from the neighbourhood as also from Nepal. Buffets are served but must be ordered beforehand and chosen from the long existing list on the menu. 

On the Bombay-Gujarat route, the national highway is dotted with restaurants, dhabas and hotels. The concept of a hotel has its Indian version — it is not necessarily a place to stay or to put up in, so Ahura Hotel has no lodging facility. It is an eatery in Maha­rashtra, one of the last few that serve liquor and non-vegetarian meals before you hit the Gujarat border, a state in which licences are not given freely for either. The passengers between the mega city of Bombay and places in Gujarat are only part of their clientele, Borzu claims. Ahura’s increasing popularity is purely by word of mouth. They seldom advertise in the media but their presence is obvious with strategically located sign boards on the highway leading up to the hotel. 

The restaurant is stric­tly a ‘no smoking area’ as smoking is not encouraged in the religion. All restaurants claim the  same as per regulations, but at Ahura they are particularly vigilant that the rule is not flaunted. In case someone does light up, they are politely asked to leave. This is also true of men wearing ganjis (vests). "Ganji pehri né avé té hamuné nahi gamé (we do not like vests to be worn here).” How does one implement these rules, stall such customers? There is a live demonstration of these suave skills — a bus load of novitiate swamis arrive in robes and tilaks (vermillon marks on forehead). The senior Shapur Borzu helps them realize that they would be more comfortable in the restaurant next door which claims to be ‘pure vegetarian.’ Needless to say, they leave happily. Families are preferred; parties of men only are not welcomed but accepted if they are well meaning and well behaved. The Borzus believe this code of conduct helps families feel more at home and come back again and again. 

The day starts with breakfast… offerings of akoori or eggs to order, kheemo-pao, South Indian fare of an assortment of dosas, idlis, uttapams, etc. However, to cater to varied consumer tastes the menu also includes tandoori, Chinese, Punjabi, Goa fish curry, a long list of naans, parathas and rotis — khasta, missi and Kashmiri. The juices and sandwiches are separately listed. Mitra proudly proclaims how her chefs take pains on layout and design rosettes from different vegetables and colorful fruits delighting the customers’ palate and palette. 

Ahura Hotel dishes out not only à la carte menu serving Parsi-Irani bhonu with sali marghi, sali boti, chicken farcha, mince patties, bhaji dana, but also the all time favorite dhansak. They serve the lesser known dhan-dar-patio — the patio being of fish, egg and plain tomato purée for vegetarians. With Parsis’ proclivity for eggs the eatery offers tambota par eedu and sali par eedu (tomato and potato straws topped with eggs). The list continues with the fish category, Mitra specifying that in this section only pomfret is used unless it is a prawn dish. The cost of a dish in the Parsi menu varies from Rs 60 to Rs 140. No prizes for guessing the dessert — Parsi pudding (custard) and jelly (red in color as is found in every ethnic Irani ‘hotel’) and sev-dahi that every Parsi celebrates a happy occasion with. The dish of sev-dahi (the two have a twin recall), is a must on every saro daro (auspicious occasion) for hardy Parsis.

This Parsi-panu is cultivated to place the stamp of ‘Ahura.’ The ethnic menu is not complete without Mitra’s recommendation: "our dahi (curd) is very good,” served in fluted glasses of four inches — a uniform, standard glass of Irani restaurants which seems to be made for the Irani owner specially — either for chai or dahi!  Ahura extends its Parsi Irani moorings to khari biscuit as well. No cuppa is complete amongst the traditional Parsi Irani without "khari” (a salted puff pastry biscuit) as accompaniment. Being ardent Zoroastrians, they serve no beef. 

The seating is not cramped — it is spacious enough to accommodate 100 customers on 24 tables. The air conditioned chamber seats a further 36 diners in its modest area. The Chinese repast is in the range of Rs 65 to Rs 100. The average South Indian dish is Rs 45, the maximum being Rs 60 and the cheapest, idli, comes for Rs 28. The most expensive item is their speciality — tandoori khajana, a platter of assorted tandoori delectables at Rs 525. 

Ahura’s business model is based on traditional expectations of Parsi enterprise. Over and above factors like trust, cleanliness, etc, they also harp on quality, value for money and a tacit code of conduct which has been laid down for customers from day one. With no experience in the hospitality business, this venture was started in 2007 to lessen economic reliance on wadis. It took 18 months to build as per their needs and is still bearing the fruit of their diversification plan. 

The name ‘Ahura Hotel’ seemed natural for the initiative. Mitra explains that "at every step we ask for dadar ahura mazda ni madad (Ahura Mazda’s help). The name was chosen because "we are bhannar-gannar (religious),” continues Mitra. "Elders are our pillars, our guide.” Her touch is evident — whether in the colourful presentation of the food or mastering family recipes or walls being washed with detergents. Nevil and Mitra are particular about saying they owe the senior Borzus a lot. Father Shapur sits at the fledgling restaurant of two-and-a-half years and supervises the routine flow. His wife Roshan has the domain of running the household at the farm. Farzan and Taronish are left to grandma’s care, she also sees that they study except at times when Farzan goes upstairs — out of her reach — and plays games on the computer! Farzan, the older boy has just completed school with excellent results and sought admission in a college in Bombay. He is a tennis and a chess player with trophies from school. Daughter Taronish, named after the 35th name of the 101 names is still schooling in Dahanu. The family is traditional sudreh-kusti wearing Zarthushtis and regular fire temple goers. The young couple say they live by the principles of Zoroastrianism and have instilled these in their children as well. 

The Borzus are original owners of agricultural land in Dahanu, which lies just six kilometres behind their restaurant. Ahura Hotel is situated on National Highway 8, Amboli, Taluka Dahanu, Maharashtra. Email: contact@ahura hotel.com. These traditional horticulturists have chikoo wadis, auction their papayas and even transported lilies grown on their land. Even today the counter proclaims sale of the fruit in season. If you are lucky you can walk off with arms full of chikoos or papayas fresh from their farm. Business, after all, is business.