Whenever the Iranshah Udvada Utsav (IUU) is scheduled, several traditionalists proclaim it is inappropriate for any entertainment program to be held in a holy precinct. Some object to attracting tourists — especially non-Parsis — to what is a place of pilgrimage. They believe it desecrates the sanctity of Udvada, a sleepy, quaint, seaside hamlet in South Gujarat.
At one time Parsis in large numbers would make the four-hour drive or train trip on auspicious occasions, packing a white sari or a dugli to don before entering the fire temple, deemed the most sacred in the country. Over years the numbers of pilgrims has diminished as community numbers lessen and age, infirmity or impoverishment making the journey too arduous. The number of hotels in the seaside town has decreased. The free bus/car rides to Udvada and back that were once advertised in the Parsi Press, and even occasionally on social media, are scarce. The number of takers must also have dwindled. Several members of the nine priestly families that are permitted to offer boi at the most sacred of fires do not do so despite notices in the Press cautioning them that their privilege may be withdrawn.
At one time a trip to Udvada was viewed as a family holiday-cum-pilgrimage. The hotels and dharamshalas were said to be fully booked for the month of May. Children and adults loitered on the beach, swam in the shallows, collected sea shells, maneuvered between the rocks when the tide was low. Today few families can financially and professionally afford a long stay.
Thanks to the five year old Udvada based Clean and Green Charitable Trust, benches installed on the beachfront now at least offer a place for locals and others to congregate, savor the evening breeze and view the sunset. The garbage that strewed the approach lanes to the beach and the cows that fed on the plastic bags and other waste have lessened or disappeared due to the Trust’s persistent and consistent efforts. Visitors often comment on how clean the environs are. New settlements have cropped up to attract investors and those interested in having a holiday home or a residence.
As a place to retire, Udvada is relatively low cost. But aside from the Atash Behram there are few attractions to draw visitors or entice them to stay. Day trips have replaced overnight stays, depriving hotels and dharamshalas of much needed income. The neighboring seaside resorts of Daman and Devka may draw people, but motorable transport is required while hotel board and lodging proves expensive.
So is the Utsav a bona fide activity to attract visitors and keep Udvada alive in the community’s collective consciousness? The idea of a festival was first publicly mooted by Prime Minister Narendra Modi when he was chief minister of Gujarat and had addressed a public gathering near the beach at Udvada in 2011. The intention was to put the holy site on the national pilgrimage map. Zoroastrianism, after all, is one of the major surviving ancient religions of the world and Gujarat which gave the Parsis shelter over 1,000 years ago should bask in its history of providing refuge to this enterprising community and its spiritual beliefs.
With moral and financial support from the Gujarat and Central governments, the Foundation for the Development of Udvada (FDU) was formed in 2002. FDU converted a conveniently located property near Udvada beach into a museum, with panels narrating religious and cultural history and showcasing other community memorabilia. The utsavs came into being in 2016 to draw people to the town from all over India and abroad. It was to be a time for entertainment, education and religiosity. Sponsors came forth offering much needed financial support.
But some questioned the need for such allurements. Surely the spiritual sanctity was sufficient to draw devoted Parsis? Why have a tamasha (fracas) as well? But in recent times visitors to the Iranshah may find the fire temple devoid of devotees. Except on auspicious days and some weekends, the numbers may be minuscule.
The rationale of some who oppose the Utsav and similar events is that it is preferable to have an empty fire temple than have people drawn to the vicinity for social entertainment or even intellectual discourse. When a garba or music-cum-dance entertainment is planned on any grounds considered sacred, whether it be at the hall adjoining the Sethna Agiary or the ecopark at Godrej Baug in Bombay, a hue and cry is raised. Often the concerned trustees relent and forbid the hosting of the event. Or like the organizers of the IUU they keep modifying the program to inculcate more of the community ethos. When the first Utsav was held some evening entertainment featured scantily clad females. This year videos circulated on social media showed middle aged women dressed in garas with lace sudrehs performing a garba dance. So there is evolution and a learning curve. Adjustments can be, and are being, made keeping in mind public sentiments. But the necessity of keeping Udvada on the community’s spiritual radar should not be lost sight of. There are Parsis who have never visited the town.
Attracting worshippers can prove to be an uphill battle for any religion, but even more so for Parsis. With every second Parsi marriage in Bombay being interfaith, how many families will spend the time, money and effort to make the journey when the non-Parsi members of their family are unwelcome and cannot partake in the worship? The journey by road can be treacherous. Many Parsis have expired in accidents or have spent hours in traffic jams often due to road repairs and maintenance. Booking train tickets can be tedious, time consuming and even futile if the tickets have been sold out. Going through agents increases the cost. When Parsis are unwilling to visit fire temples within their vicinity, how many would be willing to make the tiresome journey?
Is all of Udvada sacred? According to a Madhya Pradesh High Court ruling reported in The Indian Express of December 23, 2024, "denying a permit for establishment of a slaughterhouse on the grounds that a city (Mandsaur) is religious is ‘wholly unacceptable.’” Only a 100 m radius around the temple is considered sacred as per the municipal rules.
A mandir and a fire temple have much in common. They both house deities. In a mandir the murti is installed following the Pran Pratishtha ceremony. While in a agiary or atash behram a fire is enthroned following its consecration. If a slaughterhouse and a mandir can co-exist in the same vicinity, then why not an atash behram and an utsav?